Leela, the brainchild of renowned Michelin-starred chef Manav Tuli, previously known for his work at CHAAT in Rosewood Hong Kong, has been on the radar of many of my friends. Being familiar with my previous experiences with JIA Group, the company behind Leela, I tried not to set high expectations, but unfortunately, I still felt let down.
”I made a conscious effort to set my expectations LOW, but alas, I still managed to be utterly let down.
Mr. Chow2023.12
Leela’s Cute Interior and JIA Service
Stepping into Leela, the interior immediately evoked a sense of being in “it’s a small world” in Disneyland, with its charming and cute design. Walking through the hallway, I was transported from the bustling streets of Causeway Bay to a different world that I genuinely appreciated. Upon arriving, we were informed that our table wasn’t ready, and we were seated on the terrace. The idyllic outdoor space was marred by distracting string lights, which took away from the overall experience. Furthermore, while seated outside, the service from the JIA Group was disappointingly consistent across all their establishments. We felt neglected and ignored, forcing me to personally seek out staff in the main dining area just to place our drink orders while waiting for our table.
Flavours of CHAAT and Sweet Wings
Eventually, we were moved to our table and received a warm welcome from our designated server for the evening. We promptly ordered our food, and the starters arrived promptly. The Chaat, in particular, was delicious and reminded me of the almost identical dish I had tried at CHAAT in Rosewood. However, the experience quickly took a turn for the worse with the boneless chicken wings. Served in a fried box-shaped and coated with a kokum berry and tamarind glaze sauce, the sweetness was overpowering, and while it had a decent taste, it failed to be appetising. Besides, the meat itself was disappointingly dry, lacking the expected juiciness that is characteristic of well-prepared chicken wings.
From Cheek To Cheap
Next on our dining table appeared the tandoori mixed grill platter, a personal favourite of mine from chef Manav Tuli during my visits to CHAAT back in 2022. As I compared the prices, CHAAT charged HKD938 for the platter, while Leela priced it at HKD658, seemingly a reasonable 30% difference. However, my disappointment grew as I realised that the Leela platter only consisted of pork ribs, chicken tikka, and paneer (my oversight for not thoroughly reading the menu before ordering). This limited selection felt underwhelming in comparison to the variety offered at CHAAT, where I particularly savoured the beef cheek and lamb chops that were absent at Leela. The quality and overall satisfaction at CHAAT far exceeded the 30% price gap. To compound my disappointment, the pork ribs at Leela turned out to be dry and lacking depth of flavour. The absence of attentive service further added to my frustration, especially when I struggled to cut the pork ribs without any assistance.
While the chicken tikka and paneer were merely average, I must acknowledge the redeeming factor of the delicious yoghourt sauce provided with the dish, which I resorted to using to enhance the flavours of all the grilled items on the platter.
Saoji Lamb Shank and Garlic Naan
Adding to the series of disappointments, the Saoji Lamb Shank failed to make a lasting impression. Its flavour was ordinary and forgettable, and although the meat was tender, it lacked the anticipated juiciness. As for the garlic naan we ordered, it was fluffy, but I wished the garlic flavour had been more pronounced. Interestingly, during my visit, I took a quick peek into the kitchen and couldn’t spot Chef Manav Tuli.
Bone Marrow Biryani: Big Disappointment
During my previous visit to CHAAT, I was introduced to Biryani, and I was blown away by the explosion of flavours that accompanied the server’s cutting of the pastry. Naturally, when I saw Bone Marrow Biryani on the menu at Leela, I expected a tantalising dish with aromatic basmati rice infused with the rich marrow flavours, slow-cooked for hours. Perhaps even topped with an extra layer of bone marrow. However, my expectations were shattered. We ordered the bone marrow biryani, and as the server cut open the pastry, I was met with shock. To my surprise, there was literally a bone in the middle, with no marrow on the rice. Moreover, the bone took away a significant portion of the rice. The cutlery provided was inadequate to extract the marrow, and I had to seek assistance from another person. After taking the dish to the kitchen, they returned with only a tiny amount of marrow (please see the picture below). This experience further added to my already disappointing and stressful day, leaving me feeling utterly dejected.
Consistent Service Standards: Neglection
Remember the friendly waiter who promised to take care of our table? We found him entertaining staffs from Rosewood Hong Kong. It seemed that the entire service team had shifted their attention there, leaving our table neglected. I find this situation quite frustrating, as fairness is a core value of mine. Considering that we are paying the same amount for our food and wine, it is disheartening to receive subpar service.
It was an unfortunate turn of events. As a result, we decided to move back to the terrace to finish our wine, and I ordered a masala chai. To my dismay, the first sip revealed an unbearable sweetness that made me fear for my blood sugar levels. Remarkably, the galore of unmelted sugar crystals within the cup added an unexpected and perplexing layer to an already disheartening dining experience.
What is the appropriate amount of sugar to add to masala chai?
As I laid my eyes upon the unsightly vision of unmelted sugar, I must confess, I found it quite repulsive. In that moment, doubts about my own understanding and proficiency about masala chai crept in. I recalled enjoying a less sweet version in the past, leaving me to question my own competence. So, I turned to ChatGPT and asked, “How much sugar should be added to masala chai?”
An Obvious Downgrade
Upon reflecting on the overall experience, it becomes apparent that Chef Manav Tuli’s new baby, Leela, falls short in comparison to my memories of CHAAT from 20 months ago. While it’s possible that the food at CHAAT has changed since then, I find myself intrigued for a long-overdue visit to CHAAT. Undeniably, Leela is a noticeable downgrade in comparison.
Taste: 5.5 / 10
Service: 5 / 10
Ambiance: 8 / 10
Tempo: 7.5 / 10
”Value For Money: 3 / 10. At a cost of HKD934 without alcohol. While this may not be considered expensive by Hong Kong standards, the underwhelming food and overall unpleasant experience make it a complete rip-off.
