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I‘ve been to Xin Rong Ji in Hong Kong, and let me tell you, the Hong Kong version doesn’t hold a candle to this one – Xin Rong Ji (Xinyuan South Road, Beijing) in any way.

As we walked into the restaurant, we were greeted warmly. My first impression? High ceilings and natural light, which is quite a rarity in Hong Kong. The interior caught my eye – I really liked the open kitchen setup. Though I must say, some of those hanging cupboards from the ceiling seemed a tad too “trying to be modern-y” and the overall interior can be a bit more tasteful, and looks a bit like a hotel breakfast place now. However, the dividers were classy and elegant, creating separate spaces while still keeping that sense of openness intact. They even had this “water tank” area for all the live seafood, which is a standard for Chinese restaurants, but what caught me off-guard was how clean it all looked and how the seafood didn’t stink. And believe it or not, those fish actually seemed quite lively, not your usual sleeping bunch. Speaking of the layout, I spotted some of those long, wide tables. Personally, I’m more a fan of cosy Chinese dining with shared plates and less shouting across the table, so those tables seemed a bit wild to me. Luckily, they seated us at a quieter round table.

As you all know, I’ve got a thing for Hairy Crab, and I’ve heard heaps about the 六月黃 (June Roe Crab) – which is basically early-season roe crab. So, before coming here, we preordered the crab along with the 28-day Peking duck. They do offer a classic tasting menu for RMB1880 per person, but we wanted to handpick our dishes to truly savour the chef’s skills rather than just luxurious dried seafood. Originally, we went for the Peking Duck option sans caviar, ’cause you know, I’m not exactly a fan of fancy Chinese dishes. But there was a tiny mix-up, and they ended up bringing us the Peking Duck with caviar. And oh boy, talk about serendipity – that caviar’s saltiness somehow brought out the duck’s flavours even more.

Trust me on this! Chow’s Tip: Upside-down Peking Duck with Caviar - let that caviar and duck skin tango on your tongue. It's a flavour orgy!

Mr. Chow2023.08

The Peking Duck was on point and oh-so-delicious, though the pancake was a tad thicker than I’d hoped for, which was a minor setback. My excitement to capture a snapshot of our duck in its pristine form was cancelled. To my surprise, I was told that the ducks are all sliced in the open kitchen, while only those in the Private Dining Room are privileged to witness the tableside carving. Following the Duck came our tipsy June Roe Crab. The wine was fabulous, and the crab roe had this elegant, delicate flavour – a far cry from the heavier, creamier ones later in the year. Now, let’s talk Pigeon – it was out of this world! My only regret was not ordering one for each of us. Why did we split it in half? That pigeon was a divinely juicy outer-crisp, inner-moist masterpiece. Seriously, look at that golden skin!

Then came the Barbecue Pork. Now, brace yourself for this – it was like butter melting in your mouth. The charcoal on top was a bit sticky for my taste, but overall, it was a melt-in-your-mouth experience.

But wait, the party wasn’t over. The Brine Tofu Soup with June Roe Crab is an absolute must-try. The soup? Mind-blowing! It’s like the essence of all the roe crab’s flavour concentrated into a broth. Imagine a flavour explosion in your mouth – yes, it was that good! Even though I’ve had Xin Long Ji Braised Sea Anemone Sweet Potato Noodles multiple times, I insisted on ordering them here too. And boy, the difference was clear – fresh sea anemone and a dance of pickled pepper flavours on my palate. Moving on we have Yellow Croaker Rice Noodles. The experience was all about simplicity done right – the soup carried the essence of the yellow croaker in every spoonful, delivering a burst of genuine freshness that captured the sea’s spirit in the most delightful way. Sometimes, it’s the uncomplicated dishes that truly shine, and this bowl of noodles was a perfect testament to that.

Just when I thought I’d burst from sheer delight, they served the Baked Rice with Richfield Eel, Taizhou Style. And let me tell you, this rice was beyond amazing. Perfectly cooked rice with eel, drenched in a sauce that’s probably a mix of soy and oyster sauce, topped with chives. Sounds simple, but it’s packed with yumminess. And don’t even get me started on the crispy rice at the bottom – it’s the kind of thing I usually avoid due to my OCD, but here, I couldn’t resist. Pure crispy, saucy joy!

You might think that after all these indulgences, my lunch adventure was finally complete? Well, absolutely not! . We got our last main course – June Roe Crab Noodles This dish took a bit longer as the noodles were freshly made, and the chef’s perfectionism led him to start from scratch with the first batch. And let me tell you, the wait was worth it. The broth itself was like an explosion of pure freshness and the sweet essence of the virgin roe, mingling harmoniously with the shrimp, yellow croaker, and bunch of other seafood – a true underwater fiesta. The real showstopper was the unexpected delight of crispy shrimp, a crunchy delight that absorbed the essence of the broth, offering an oceanic symphony of taste in every bite. And as if that wasn’t enough, the crowning glory was the rich, golden egg yolk perched on top, absolute heaven.

After a meal as splendid as this, I’d usually raise an eyebrow at dessert, but guess what? Dessert turned out to be an unexpected treat. Those almond biscuits, in particular, stole the show – I ended up getting 10 boxes to take home. Just when my satisfied belly thought it couldn’t get any better (it was almost a 2.5-hour culinary journey with 10 courses), I made a visit to the restroom. To my pleasant surprise, I love it when you can thoroughly dry your hands with just one tissue #sustainable. It’s these little details that make all the difference (9 points to Xin Rong Ji)!

Without a doubt, this was undeniably one of the most enjoyable meals I’ve had in Beijing. It’s the kind of culinary experience that’s worth flying over for. P.S. Just a friendly heads-up: There are three Xin Rong Ji locations in Beijing, so make sure you don’t end up at the wrong one! Haha

Taste: 9.5 / 10
Service: 9 / 10
Ambiance: 9 / 10
Tempo: 7.5 / 10

Value for Money: 17 / 10! RMB1030 for a meal that's close to perfection (if only the pancake was thinner and the pork less charred). This has to be the first time I've been so content with a Michelin 3-star restaurant. Even the bathroom tissue felt so nice. When every single star feels worth it, you know you've had a meal of a decade.

LLL