Yong Fu (Huangpu) 甬府 (黄浦)

Located on the 12th floor of Jinjiang Hotel, the initial impression upon entering is that of an old, somewhat deserted place. A doorman stands still, and as you step through the hotel door, it feels empty. For my first meal back in Shanghai, recommended by a friend, Yong Fu 甬府 proudly holds One Michelin Star and has earned Three-Diamonds on the ‘Black Pearl Guide’ — somewhat akin to the Michelin Guide of China; the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide divides listed restaurants into three levels: One-Diamond Restaurants (must-eat for parties), Two-Diamond Restaurants (must-eat for anniversaries), and Three-Diamond Restaurants (must-eat once in a lifetime). Positioned at the highest tier of the Black Pearl Guide and considering that the guide employs local food critics, adding to its credibility, we decided to give it a shot.

Our attempt to seek recommendations from the staff was met with haste, the waitress pressuring us to order quickly, leaving little time to look at the menu. It’s disappointing when staff appear more inclined to suggest expensive dishes rather than those of genuine quality. With special emphasis on the supposedly exquisite fried crab — an endorsement that, upon trying, left us disappointed (more on that later).

Despite booking a table for 8 pm, we found ourselves rushed to order, informed that 8:30 marked the last call. A red bean soup (紅豆沙) greeted us, a common dessert in Hong Kong but apparently favoured as a amuse-bouche here at Yong Fu 甬府. The first starter, fish roe jelly, offered a pleasant mix of subtle saltiness from the fish roe.

Next in line were the fried lotus petals with pork, a delightful combination of freshness and crunch. The highly recommended Yong Fu 18-cut crab, touted as a culinary challenge by our waitress, fell short of expectations, proving to be rather ordinary. The duck tongue, chewy with minimal flavour, further contributed to the underwhelming experience. All these dishes arrived within a mere 9 minutes, disrupting our ability to savour each one adequately. The suggested fried crab turned out to be disappointingly mediocre, with an excess of shells making it difficult to enjoy the minimal meat.

Introducing the famous Sea Anemones Bean Noodles (Sea anemones, close relatives to corals and jellyfish, are believed to enhance male vitality in Chinese culture). Having tried this dish at various locations, I was quite disappointed with this one as the flavour turned out to be surprisingly light. The scarcity of sea anemones resulted in a subtle taste, a far cry from the robust and flavourful version I enjoyed at Beijing Xin Kong Ji. The final dish, simmered white radish, emerged as the standout of the night — simple, sweet, and tasty.

Address: 12F, Cathay Building, Jin Jiang Hotel, 59 South Maoming Road, Huangpu, Shanghai, China Mainland